How Does Hot Weather Affect Resin?
Although resin prefers warm temperatures over cold, a hot and humid climate can cause curing issues in epoxy resin, and prolonged heat exposure can even affect cured resin. To achieve optimal results, it's best to work with 2 part epoxy resin in a warm, dry environment throughout the curing process. Here are 3 simple tips to help you beat the heat and ensure a successful summertime resin:
- Keep your workspace, resin and tools at standard room temperature: ideal conditions are 75F/24C - 85F/30C and should stay stable for the first 24 hours.
- Ideal humidity is below 50% however you can work in conditions less than 80% humidity.
- Cured resin art should not be exposed to high temperatures or direct sunlight for any length of time.
Wondering why temperature is so important? What effect do high temperatures and humidity have on epoxy resin? And what happens to cured resin art in the heat of summer?
Let's find out ....
Temperature of your resin room:
When the resin and hardener are combined, the curing process generates heat - in fact, you may notice that your resin starts to get warm after it's mixed. The higher the heat, the faster the resin will cure. On one hand, this can work to your advantage while your piece is drying, but on the other, it can greatly impact your working time: a room temperature above 85F/30C can jump start the curing process, causing the resin in your mixing cup to get hot very quickly and thicken prematurely.
In summer, air conditioning is a good idea to help maintain standard room temperature or just slightly above: it should be no cooler than 72F/22C and no higher than 85F/30C. If air conditioning is not an option and the temperature is above 85F/30C, work in the coolest part of your house.
đź’ˇTIP: Ensure the resin room stays stable during the entire curing process: the first 24 hours of a cure are critical and temperature dips may result in surface imperfections. For example, placing a resined piece to cure in a sunny window may seem ideal, but when the goes down, the temperature does too. You may end up with the "orange peel" effect with dimples, waves and other strange imperfections in your resin.
Luckily, this is an easy fix!
Learn how to fix surface mistakes in our blog How To Apply A Second Coat.
Temperature of your Epoxy Resin:
Just as the temperature of your room can affect cure time, so too can the temperature of epoxy resin: resin and hardener that are too hot can cure prematurely or even instantly after being mixed.
Preparation is key when it comes to working with resin during hot summer months: make sure your tools and project are prepped and organized so that you can pour immediately after your resin is mixed. Never use resin that has come straight out of a hot car or that was delivered and left out on a hot day: allow your resin and hardener time to come up to room temperature before you plan to pour. Store your opened or unopened bottles out of direct sunlight in a spot where it will stay stable at room temperature.
đź’ˇ TIP: Don't forget that if you're applying resin to a surface that can retain heat (like metal) a hot substrate can also accelerate curing and diminish your working time.
Humidity:
The heat of summer often brings along with it high humidity. Humidity refers to the amount of moisture in the air and it can make a difference in your resin's final result: when moisture is introduced into the mixture, you may end up with a cloudy look or an oily appearance on the surface layer. This loss of clarity can occur during mixing and pouring or while the piece is curing so it's important to maintain consistent temperature and humidity levels throughout the curing process: suggested humidity should be below 80% and ideally below 50% for optimal results.
Air conditioning can cut humidity but running a dehumidifier the day before you plan to resin can be valuable if you live in a very humid climate.
Cured Resin In High Temperatures:
Cured resin art can withstand a certain amount of heat, say, a warm coffee cup on a coaster, for example, but very high temperatures can cause fully cured resin art to temporarily soften. The resin will quickly harden up again once it cools down, but prolonged exposure may cause the resin to shift or distort.
For example, a coaster left in a sunny window may become flexible, but will quickly harden up again once the temperature drops.
In the case of resin artwork, this flexibility can make the resin vulnerable to denting and damage: care must be taken not to stack up or lean artwork against each other if, say, you're showing your work at an outdoor art festival.
⚠️ PLEASE NOTE: Never leave cured resin art, including tumblers, inside of a hot car during the summer months. In these conditions, the temperature can get exceedingly hot. Gravity may pull the softened resin, causing it to pool or warp irreparably.
So remember, for flawless results during the summer months, always use ArtResin as directed and remember these rules of thumb:
- Keep your workspace, resin and tools ideally between 75F/24C - 85F/30C and stable for the first 24 hours.
- Ideal humidity is below 50% however you can work in conditions less than 80% humidity.
- Cured resin art should not be exposed to high temperatures or direct sunlight for any length of time.
What is the best temperature to store ArtResin epoxy resin?
Opened or unopened, store your ArtResin bottles in a dark spot, out of direct sunlight and in a spot where the temperature will stay stable at room temperature or just slightly below ( 70F or 20C ).
Working with resin in winter? Check out our seasonal video ... How Does Cold Weather Affect Resin all about pointers for resining in the thick of winter!
Hope you found this valuable - please leave any questions or comments below. Let's resin!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
@forfoundsake Is Our Instagram Winner!
A part-time artist and a full-time project manager, Erin has been creating art since childhood. She took painting, drawing, jewelry making, pottery, graphic design, and photography classes throughout high school and college, graduating with a degree in Communications and the Arts specializing in Graphic Design with a minor in Art specializing in 2D design.
Erin says, "It was college where I found my love for taking tangible items, sticking them on a canvas, and coating them in Liquitex Matte Medium & Varnish. I would make very large pieces using items like fabrics, jewelry, and various things coated in up to 10 coats of Liquitex."
In 2019, she discovered ArtResin and incorporated her love of fabric and gemstones to create what you see today with For Found Sake. Erin says: "It has totally changed my art with its very shiny and permanent properties. There is nothing like preserving something under a coat of Art Resin. I transform it into this shiny and texturally interesting piece of art."
Erin participates in live art/maker shows and her work can be found in three stores in Wisconsin: The Local Store in Eau Claire, WI, Lake Country Mercantile in Pewaukee, and Paoli Art Shop in Paoli, WI. She also sells through direct message on Instagram.
To see more of Erin's work:
Congratulations on your win, Erin!
To celebrate all the amazing artists staying home and creating, every month we will be sending out a 32 oz kit to a couple of artists who have tagged us on Instagram—and we'll share their work with the world!
Don't forget, tag YOUR ArtResin work with @art_resin on Instagram, and YOU could be our next winner!!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
Resin Art Tools For Beginners
When it comes to working successfully with epoxy resin, the old saying "use the right tools for the job" is true. Each resin tool is used for a specific purpose, so it's important to use the correct tools and to use them correctly to save you valuable time, effort and money. If you're new to working with resin, however, you might not know where to begin:
What resin supplies should a beginner get?
Which resin tools are need-to-haves vs nice-to-haves?
Where do I buy resin tools?
Do I need to spend a lot of money on resin supplies?
The good news is that basic resin art supplies are easily found at your local hardware store or online. In fact, you may already have some of them around the house. Here are the essentials you need to get started with epoxy resin:
2. Disposable Gloves
3. Apron/Old Clothes
4. Plastic Drop Sheet
5. Masking Tape
6. Plastic Stands
7. Level
8. Plastic Container For Water Bath
9. Plastic Measuring Cup
10. Plastic Stir Stick
11. Plastic Spreader
12. Butane Torch
13. Toothpicks
14. Dust Cover
15. Alcohol and Paper Towel
16. Hand Cleaner
The importance of plastic resin tools:
From stir sticks to spreaders to plastic drop sheets, we recommend plastic tools when working with resin for good reason: epoxy resin doesn't adhere to plastic which makes clean up a breeze (and who doesn't like easy clean up?)
You have two choices when it comes to cleaning off plastic resin tools:
- Spritz wet tools with isopropyl alcohol and wipe dry with paper towel. Repeat this step as often as necessary to remove all traces of resin. When there is no more resin residue left, wash tools in hot soapy water and allow to dry thoroughly before using them again.
- Lay wet tools on a plastic surface overnight and allow the resin to cure. The next day, the resin will peel right off.
Either way, you can use plastic tools over and over again making them a smart choice when working with resin.
The importance of clean & dry resin tools:
Having the right tools for the job is essential, but equally important is that your resin tools must be both clean and dry:
- dirty tools will contaminate resin with dust, bits of cured resin from previous projects and, if solvents or oily substances are introduced into the mixture, can even prevent the resin from curing properly.
- water can cause a cloudy cure in resin so ensure that all tools, measuring containers, your work surface and the object you're resining are thoroughly dry.
Need To Haves: Resin Art Tool Essentials
When you're starting out with epoxy resin, you may want to get the feel of it with something simple, like applying a coat of resin to a piece of artwork. There are a handful of basic (but necessary) tools when working with epoxy resin. Let's take a closer look at the supplies you need to use when applying epoxy resin as a surface coating:
1. ArtResin Epoxy Resin
ArtResin is available in multiple sizes from 8 oz to 10 gallons, depending on the size of your project. Not sure how much you need? Simply enter your dimensions into ArtResin's Resin Calculator and it will tell you exactly how much resin you need and which kit to buy.
💡A Note About Respirators: You may have heard that wearing a respirator is necessary when working with epoxy resin. For many resin brands on the market this is true. ArtResin, however, has been tested by a toxicologist and was found to be a a clean system, meaning everything in the formula reacts, leaving no VOCs or noxious fumes that can become airborne and breathed in. As a result, ArtResin was found to conform to ASTM D-4236 with no component of its make-up having been found to be harmful, toxic, hazardous or dangerous when used as directed! This means you do not need to use a respirator when using ArtResin in a well-ventilated area. You can read more about our ASTM D-4236 certification here.
2. Gloves
Protect your hands with disposable gloves. In its liquid form, ArtResin is sticky and a pair of gloves protects your hands from a mess as well as possible skin irritation. Ensure you have several pairs of gloves on hand when working with resin. We like to use nitrile gloves - they are similar to latex but a lot stronger and with none of the allergenic compounds commonly associated with latex. You can find nitrile gloves as part of our Accessory Kit or in the paint department of your local hardware store.
3. Apron/Old Clothes
Protect your clothing from resin drips by wearing an apron, a smock, or old clothes while you work. Resin is very difficult to remove if you happen to drip any on your clothing. If you have long hair, throw it up in a ponytail to keep the resin out of your hair and your hair out of your resin.
4. Plastic Drop Sheet:
Protect your work surface and your floor from resin drips or spills with a plastic drop sheet. A clear, smooth vinyl shower curtain makes an inexpensive, sturdy liner that can be re-used again and again: resin drips can either be wiped clean with paper towel and isopropyl alcohol or, if allowed to dry, can be peeled off the next day. For smaller projects, kitchen parchment paper works very nicely.
5. Masking Tape
Tape off the bottom of your artwork to catch drips: if you want to resin the sides of your piece, tape off the bottom of your piece with good quality painter's tape. As gravity pulls the resin down the sides, drips will start to accumulate along the bottom. The tape will catch these drips and once the resin is dry to the touch, pull the tape off and the drips right along with it.
đź’ˇTIP: If you plan to allow the ArtResin to dome (that is, sit on top of your artwork without going over the sides) you can tape off the bottom for a little extra insurance in case the resin spills over the edges. Learn more about doming in our blog What Is Doming Resin?
6. Stands
Propping your piece up on plastic stands allows excess resin to pool on the plastic lined work surface. We like using painter's pyramid stands here at ArtResin - you can find these in the paint section of any hardware store or you can buy them as part of our Accessory Kit. Plastic shot glasses or large toy building blocks also work well - both can be found at the dollar store.
7. Level
Ensure your work is perfectly horizontal by checking it with a traditional level or with ArtResin's mobile phone level: www.artresin.com/level. Since epoxy resin self-levels, it will run off the sides at the lowest point if your piece is slanted.
8. Plastic Container For Water Bath
If your resin is cold, a warm water bath will bring it up to room temperature making the resin easier to work with. Choose a narrow container with tall sides to prevent the bottles from tipping over. Fill it halfway with warm water, about as warm as you’d use for a baby’s bath, and let the capped bottles sit for about 10-15 minutes. Dry your bottles off thoroughly before you open them and you’re ready to measure and mix.
9. Stir Stick
The best stir stick for resin is one with a flat side: under mixed resin will not cure properly so it's important to scrape the sides and bottom of the container as you stir so that every last bit of resin and hardener are combined. A stir stick with a flat side can scrape the container much more effectively than something rounded, like a spoon. You can use wood craft sticks/tongue depressors but these must be disposed of after each use. Our favourite re-usable, plastic stir stick, pictured below, is available in our Accessory Kit.
10. Mixing Container
Measure and mix your resin in a plastic, graduated measuring jug: inaccurately measured resin and hardener will not cure so it's important to use a cup with well marked lines to avoid guesstimating. It doesn't matter if you measure the resin first or the hardener, as long as both parts are precisely equal amounts. Choose a mixing cup made of plastic - when you're finished, place your cup upside down on a plastic lined surface, and let the resin pool. The next day, when the resin is cured, peel it off and you can use your cup again.
11. Spreader
Use a plastic spreader with a flat edge to guide the resin: epoxy resin will naturally self-level after you pour it, but a flat plastic spreader distributes it evenly over your piece. ArtResin's spreader, available in our Accessory Kit, has three different jagged edges to allow you to control the volume of resin you're spreading.
If you'd like to let the resin sit neatly in a dome on top of your artwork without going over the sides, a small spatula or a plastic take out knife works very nicely to nudge the resin right to the edge without spilling over.
If you'd like to apply resin to the sides of your piece, you can use your gloved hands or a foam brush.
12. Torch
A flame torch is the best way to achieve a flawless, bubble free, finish: mixing resin creates a lot of bubbles and these need to be removed or they will cure right into your piece. Blowing them out through a straw or poking them with a toothpick are not effective. Hairdryers don't get hot enough, will blow your resin around and will introduce dust. A heat gun is a good option when working with silicone molds but for most resin work, nothing beats a flame torch to get rid of bubbles. A small butane torch like our Artist's Torch works nicely for most projects. For larger pieces, a propane torch can't be beat! Butane and propane tanks can be found at any hardware store.
đź’ˇTIP: If you're nervous to use a flame torch, please don't be. Once you've used one, you'll wonder how you ever did without it! You can read more about the benefits of using torches in our blog Why Use A Torch To Get Rid Of Bubbles?
13. Toothpicks
Toothpicks are indispensable when resining: after you've torched your piece, look at your resin art at eye level under a light source, using your toothpick to pop stray bubbles or to fish out bits of dust or hair. They are handy if you want to nudge small amounts of resin around or to place inclusions like gold flake or gems exactly where you want them.
14. Dust Cover
Have a dust cover ready before you start to resin: you never want to leave your freshly resined art exposed while you look for a cardboard box or plastic tote. Ensure the cover is wiped down to remove any dust that can drop down into your wet piece. We like plastic totes because they're easy to wipe out. You can use a cardboard box as long as you remove the flaps - you don't want to find the next day that a flap has dropped and cured into your resin ... true story!
15. Alcohol and paper towel
Paper towel and isopropyl alcohol are essential for spills and clean up: wearing gloves, wipe as much wet resin off with paper towel first, and then spritz your tools with a spray bottle of alcohol to remove any remaining residue. Wipe dry with more paper towel and repeat this process until there is no residue left. Never allow resin to go down the sink! Once your tools are clear of all resin residue, you can wash them with hot, soapy water and allow to dry thoroughly before using them again.
⚠️TIP: Because alcohol breaks down resin, never use it to wipe resin from your hands, or your skin may end up absorbing it. Read more about safety precautions when working with resin here.
16. Hand Cleaner
Clean sticky hands with an exfoliant hand cleaner: if you happen to get ArtResin on your skin, wash it off promptly to prevent possible skin irritation. An exfoliant hand cleaner from the hardware store works very nicely. In a pinch, you can dry rub your hands with a small amount of poppyseeds or salt and some liquid soap to remove the resin, then rinse well with water.
Nice To Haves: Experimenting With Resin
Here's where you can let your creativity flow! Once you've got the basics down, you'll be ready to experiment with some new resin projects. Here a few ideas to get started with:
- use silicone molds to make coasters and other small castings
- drop alcohol ink into resin to make petri dish art
- pour different shades of tinted resin to create flow art
- layer shades of blue and white tinted resin to create ocean art
In order to make these projects, you'll need to add a few things to your resin toolbox:
Silicone Molds
Silicone molds are perfect for casting small resin art projects: unlike a plastic mold which could rip or warp, a silicone mold is flexible and allows you to peel it back from the resin cast. It pops back into shape and you can use them over and over again. You can find molds in just about any shape and size but an easy project to get started with is making resin coasters in a mold like this one: you can add inclusions like beer caps, shells, decorative stones, gems, crystals and so much more. You can even make your own custom molds with Mold Making Material, a 2-part silicone product.
Alcohol Ink
You can also use a silicone mold to create petri dish resin art. Just squeeze Alcohol Ink drops into mixed ArtResin in a silicone mold, followed with white Ink Sinker to push the colors down through the resin, creating tendrils, squiggles and other cool effects! :
⚠️ PLEASE NOTE: While liquid ArtResin is non-flammable on its own, this is not the case once alcohol ink is added to the mix. Alcohol is flammable and for that reason, a torch should not be used on resin that contains alcohol ink.
Colorants
Epoxy resin looks beautiful when it’s tinted: for best results, always choose a colorant designed specifically for use with resin, like ResinTint liquid colorant. Stir the colorant into the mixture until the resin is one consistent color.
đź’ˇ TIP: Regardless of the colorant, a little goes a long way: don't add more than 6% of the total volume of mixed resin and hardener or your resin may not cure properly.
Plastic cups and stir sticks
Mix tinted resin using clear plastic drinking glasses and popsicle sticks: if your resin art project uses tinted resin, follow this process:
- Mix one big batch of resin in the amount your entire project requires.
- Portion out the resin into individual cups, according to the amount you need per color. Use a separate cup for each color.
- Drop the tint into the resin and mix thoroughly until the resin is one consistent hue. Start with less color than you think you need: you can always add more.
- Test the depth of color by pulling a little tinted resin up the side of the plastic cup - add a little more tint if necessary.
Wood Panels & Metal Trays
Strong, sturdy substrates best support the weight of resin: epoxy resin is heavy so wood panels are a great choice when working with resin. You can mount prints, photos, or even paint directly onto the panel and coat with resin for a modern looking finish. Cradled wood panels contain a lip to contain the resin and work very nicely when pouring tinted resin for flow art or ocean art. Metal serving trays also work very well for this purpose.
đź’ˇTIP: you can resin a stretched canvas, but the back needs to be reinforced with cardboard to prevent the fabric from sagging, which can cause the resin to pool in the centre as it cures.
Heat Gun & Hair Dryer
Use a heat gun on silicone molds and a hair dryer for flow art: though we almost always recommend using a flame torch, there are two exceptions:
- When working with silicone molds: the intensity of a flame can risk damaging silicone, so a heat gun is a good alternative when working with molds.
- For creating cells and lacing in flow art or ocean art: use a heat gun or hair dyer on low to gently push the layers of tinted resin, creating fun effects. Finish off with a quick pass of a flame torch to pop any bubbles.
Inclusions
Add gold leaf, crystals, decorative stones, charms, glitter to your work: inclusions is just a fancy way of describing all the fun little embellishments you can add to your resin work to create shine, interest, and texture. You can suspend flakes of gold leaf, you can add crushed glass or crystals to replicate geodes, you can add sparkle and depth with some glitter, you can create coasters with beer caps, shells, or dried flowers. There are about a million different things at the craft store you can add to resin: always make sure your inclusions are thoroughly dry and we advise testing first to make sure you get the result you're looking for.
Sandpaper
From time to time, you may find your resin has cured with a bubble or a bit of dust or hair in it. Not to worry: this is easily fixed by pouring a fresh coat of resin. Before you do that, you’ll need to sand down the first coat, roughing it up so that the fresh resin has something to adhere to. Whether you use a piece of sandpaper, a sanding block or an electric sander, use a coarse sandpaper like 80 grit over the entire surface, paying particular attention to sand out the problem area. It’s going to look like a mess, but don’t worry. Once you wipe away all of the sanding dust and pour your fresh coat, it’ll look good as new.
We hope you found this helpful! The bottom line is, that when it comes to working with resin, having the right tools helps you to get a better result.
If you have questions or comments on any resin supplies, please leave them below - we're happy to answer!
Ready to grab your supplies and get started?
We'll teach you everything your need to know in our ArtResin 101 video!
And if you're ready to branch out and try something new, here are a few great projects to get started with:
- How To Make A Resin Coaster
- How To Create Petri Dish Art
- How To Create Resin Flow Art
- How To Make Ocean Resin Art
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists
@ileft_myheart Is Our Newest Instagram Winner!
Shelley is a self-taught artist from Iowa City, Iowa and founder of the #ILeftMyHeart project. A long time collector of rock hearts, Shelley decided to spread the love by making her own hand painted, resined heart rocks for people to hide and find.
Shelley says, "I am so excited to see where my hearts land! Some have already been found and I have connected with those that found them. With summer coming, I have so many people who have bought my hearts that are ready to travel with their hearts to all parts of the world (including Europe, Japan, US) and share them by leaving them on trails, in cities, etc. for others to find and enjoy!"
The back of each heart has the hashtag #ileftmyheart and Shelley encourages people to share online once they've left or found one: "I get the sheer joy of watching people share their hearts with others and enjoy seeing the joy it brings to those that find them. That was my mission."
Shelley uses a gypsum cement mix cast in silicone molds to make her hearts. Once cured, she hand paints a base of acrylic paint on each one and adds a design with Posca paint markers before sealing them with a coat of ArtResin.
Shelley first discovered ArtResin when she saw the video Kindness Rocks, a tutorial on painting and sealing rocks, on the ArtResin YouTube channel. Shelley says, "I love ArtResin, not only because it seals my project brilliantly, but the colors just POP! It adds a whole new dimension to my heart rocks. It's so easy to use and a little goes a long way."
Shelley works full time, running her business during the evenings and weekends. She has been selling through social media since April 2020 but hopes to get a blog or shop set up soon: "I did not anticipate the interest my heart project has taken on!"
To see more of Shelley's work:
Visit her blog: I Left My Heart
Congratulations on your win, Shelley!
To celebrate all the amazing artists staying home and creating, every month we will be sending out a 32 oz kit to a couple of artists who have tagged us on Instagram—and we'll share their work with the world!
Don't forget, tag YOUR ArtResin work with @art_resin on Instagram, and YOU could be our next winner!!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
How To Make Textured Resin Art
Join Rebecca from ArtResin as she demonstrates two different textured resin art techniques: the first uses acrylic paint and second uses tinted ArtResin. Each method has a totally different, but equally beautiful look. Once you learn how it's done, you're going to want to try it yourself!
Let's get started!
Option 1 - Acrylic Paint
With this method, you're going to use acrylic paint for a colorful, opaque look, made even more vibrant under a coat of ArtResin.
What You'll Need:
- A wood art panel
- Drywall compound
- Spatula or small trowel
- Acrylic Paint
- Paintbrushes
- ArtResin epoxy resin
- Disposable gloves
- Stir Stick
- Mixing cup with easy to read measurement lines
- Foam brush
- A handheld butane torch like our Artist's Torch
- A clean box or plastic tote to protect your resin art while it dries
2. Draw your design into the drywall compound while it's still soft using the handle end of a paintbrush. Here's where you can get really creative using a variety of tools to create different textures in the compound.
Here are a few ideas:
- use your spatula or trowel to create swirls
- press bubble wrap into the compound to make indents
- use a paint brush for brush strokes
- use a toothpick for fine details
- use a comb to create lines
- use crumpled aluminum foil to create a rough texture
đź’ˇTIP: Practice first with a variety of tools and compound on a scrap piece of wood to get an idea of what sort of textures you can achieve.
3. Using acrylics, paint your color pattern onto the dried plaster design. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly before applying ArtResin.
4. Wearing gloves, measure and mix the resin and hardener in equal amounts by volume. Mix for at least 3 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing container as you stir.
đź’ˇTIP: Not sure how much ArtResin you need? Simply enter the dimensions of your wood panel into our Resin Calculator and it will tell you exactly how much resin you need and which kit to buy.
5. Apply ArtResin evenly to the front and sides of the panel using a foam brush or gloved hands.
6. Pass a butane torch over the top of the resined surface quickly to remove any bubbles. Looking under a light source, use a toothpick to remove dust or pop stray bubbles.
7. Cover your resin art with a clean dust cover and allow to dry for 24 hours.
Option 2 - ResinTint
The second method is similar to the first except you'll be painting the plaster design with tinted ArtResin for a more transparent, watercolor effect.
What You'll Need:
- A wood art panel
- Drywall compound
- Spatula or small trowel
- ArtResin epoxy resin
- Disposable gloves
- Stir Stick
- Mixing cup with easy to read measurement lines
- Plastic cups & stir sticks (one for each color)
- ResinTint liquid colorant
- Eyedropper
- A handheld butane torch like our Artist's Torch
- Toothpicks
- A clean box or plastic tote to protect your resin art while it dries
1. Using a spatula or trowel, apply a thick coat of drywall compound to the front and sides of the wood panel. Shape it with the spatula until you're happy with how it looks. Ensure that the coat on the face of the panel is thick enough to draw your design into.
2. Draw your design into the drywall compound while it's still soft using the handle end of a paintbrush. Carve your design deep enough into the compound to create well defined cavities - this will help contain the resin and prevent the colors from bleeding into one another. Here's where you can get really creative using different tools to create different textures in the compound. Here are a few ideas:
- use your spatula or trowel to create swirls
- press bubble wrap into the compound to make indents
- use a paint brush for brush strokes
- use a toothpick for fine details
- use a comb to create lines
- use crumpled aluminum foil to create a rough texture
đź’ˇTIP: Practice first with a variety of tools and compound on a scrap piece of wood to get an idea of what sort of textures you can achieve.
3. Wearing gloves, measure and mix the resin and hardener in equal amounts by volume. Mix for at least 3 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing container as you stir.
đź’ˇTIP: Not sure how much ArtResin you need? Simply enter the dimensions of your wood panel into our Resin Calculator and it will tell you exactly how much resin you need and which kit to buy.
4. Portion out the resin into small plastic cups, one per color. Add a few drops of ResinTint to each cup, mixing well to achieve the color you desire. Start with less than you need, adding more as necessary. Check the transparency by pulling some of the tinted resin up the side of the cup with the stir stick: if the tint is too translucent, add a little more colorant.
đź’ˇTIP: No matter which colorant you use, don't add more than 6% of the total combined volume of resin and hardener. Adding more than this will throw off the delicate balance required for the resin and hardener to cure, and you may end up with resin that doesn't harden.
5. Apply the tinted resin to fill in the design as you wish. You could, for example:
- Fill in the outline with an eyedropper
- Use a paintbrush for any detail work
- Fill in larger areas with a foam brush
- Pour the tinted resin onto your piece, using a gloved hand to blend it.
6. Pass a butane torch over the top of the resined surface quickly to remove any bubbles. Looking under a light source, remove any dust or pop any stray bubbles with a toothpick. Cover your resin art with a clean dust cover and allow to dry for 24 hours.
Making these textured resin art pieces really is as simple as it looks: one will give you a vibrant, opaque look and the other has a less saturated, transparent look. Whichever technique you choose to try is really up to your personal preference. Either way, you're going to see just how fun they are to make, we promise.
Which one do you prefer? Let us know in the comments below!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists
@TotesFerosh Is Our Latest Instagram Winner!
I've been drawing ever since I was a kid. I'm a UX designer by day, so my art creation typically takes place after work hours or on weekends. It's challenging finding the energy to continue creating after a long day designing, but I love my artwork, so it's worth it. The pandemic has given me so much extra time to spend on my art, so I'm appreciative of having a great hobby to spend time inside doing.
What's your art background?
What's your favorite medium?
My signature medium is linocut. I have been drawn to the meditative nature of hand carving linoleum blocks ever since I was a teenager. The style of linocut it very stark in contrast and reminiscent of the illustrative style used in comics. My work and aesthetic are largely influenced by a childhood infatuation with superheroes and anime, specifically intensified during my time living in Japan. These characters often present one significant trait which ostracizes them from society, not unlike many Queer people.
In Chicago, I've struggled finding other Queer artists. I know they are out there, but they aren't in the mainstream gallery scene. As someone beginning to be known in that scene, I feel like it's my responsibility to make a statement with my work. I don’t want to speak for the entire community, but I'd like my presence to feel like an invitation for other Queer folx to attend. My Man Up series was really my first introduction into that. I initially produced that series for a high profile show which I knew would see at least 1000 visitors on opening night. This platform was a great opportunity to speak for the unheard and amplify the voices who are often censored or not asked to show in these sort of gallery spaces. Generally, this series was a huge hit. At the show, I gave out free mini prints of the pieces, and every so often, I come across a photo of an artists' studio who has one hung up, or I meet someone who says "Oh YOU'RE the artist that made that?"
My work highlights my signature linocut style as the key medium. Each subject of my work is carved by hand from a block of linoleum, taking up to 20 hours per block. I then ink each carving and press them into paper using a hand-operated press, revealing unique multiples. Once cut out and prepped with a sealant, the linocuts are assembled on cradled pine wood panels and adorned with a colorful assortment of acrylics, charcoals, and other media. Lastly, I pour the ArtResin mixture on top of each piece, encasing all components under a dazzling, hyper-glossy surface.
What was it about resin that attracted you?
Visit his Etsy shop: totesferosh
See his debut exhibit: My Dazzling Queer Fantasy opening June 4th at Elephant Room Gallery in Chicago.
Congratulations on your win, Josh!
To celebrate all the amazing artists staying home and creating, every month we will be sending out a 32 oz kit to a couple of artists who have tagged us on Instagram—and we'll share their work with the world!
Don't forget, tag YOUR ArtResin work with @art_resin on Instagram, and YOU could be our next winner!!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
How To Build A Box For Mold Making
When you're making custom molds, a simple box is the most effective way to contain the silicone. The box can be made from objects around the house, like a milk carton or a plastic container, or you can build one out of plexiglass, cardboard or foam core. Whether you use a ready made box or you build your own, make sure your mold box checks off the following:
- it's sturdy
- it's leak proof
- it has a plastic lined interior so that your mold pulls away with ease
- it's big enough to leave enough some space around your object
We're going to show you a couple of quick and easy options using objects from around the house or if you prefer to DIY it, we'll show you how to build your own custom mold.
Let's get started!
Option 1 - Quick and Easy
If you don't have time or the desire to build your own box, you can make an effective mold from items easily found around the house.
Plastic containers are sturdy, re-usable, leak proof, waterproof and allow the mold to easily release once cured. They come in a variety of shapes, sizes and heights to suit any object you wish to mold.
Small cardboard boxes are another great option: they're sturdy and you can easily find a size to fit most objects. The cardboard will absorb the silicone so to prevent this, you'll have to line the interior of the box with a good quality tape like packing tape or sheathing tape (Tuck Tape). This will also help the mold pop out of the box with ease.
Empty milk cartons are an even better option: they're stable and already plastic lined, which means they won't leak or absorb the silicone and will easily pull away once the mold has cured. We used a milk carton to clone our King Tut figure, cutting it about an inch taller than King Tut and using the bottom half.
Option 2 - Build Your Own Box
If you need something sized specifically to fit an object, it’s easy to build a custom box. You've got a couple of options here:
- you can make a single-use box out of cardboard or foam core
- you can use plexiglass for a box that can be used again and again
Cardboard Or Foam Core:
You can build a box out of cardboard or foam core, but you'll want to line the inside of the box with tape as well as the sides and corners. The tape will not only make the box waterproof and leakproof, but allows the finished mold to easily pull away after the silicone has cured.
Plexiglass/Acrylic Sheets:
Building a box out of plexiglass takes a little more time but it's worth the effort since you can re-use the box over and over again.
What You'll Need:
- cutting mat or safe surface to make cuts
- 5 sheets of plexiglass acrylic sheets (leave protective film on)
- ruler
- utility knife
- hot glue gun, tape or silicone gel
- Mold Making Material
- object you wish to make a mold of
Determine the size of box you’ll need to fit the object you want to cast: you'll need to leave about 1/2 - 3/4" of space on each side of your object to capture every detail and to ensure the walls are strong and durable enough to re-use the mold again. Cut your pieces to size with your utility knife. You will need 4 identical sized pieces for the walls and a smaller piece for the base.
The plexiglass sheets are fairly thin so they cut easily and snap off with a little pressure.
Once your pieces are cut to size, remove the protective film.
We're ready to build! Fasten the walls together, securing them with the glue gun. Ensure that the glue is thoroughly applied along the seams: any holes or gaps can allow the silicone to leak out or shift during the curing process.
đź’ˇTIP: you can use tape to fasten the walls together, but we recommend a wide, high tack, good quality tape (we like sheathing tape, like Tuck Tape). You want to ensure there are absolutely no gaps where the silicone can seep out. You can also use silicone gel, but we prefer a hot glue gun since the glue dries so quickly.
You can place your object inside the box as you're building to ensure you've left enough room all the way around it. Once all the seams have been glued, set your box aside and allow the glue to dry.
Pouring Your Mold:
Now you're ready to have a little fun with Mold Making Material! In this example, we're going to make our mold using a milk container cut to size. Place a little dab of glue on the base of your object to secure it, and place it down onto the base of the container, ensuring it is centered.
Pour equal amounts of Part A and Part B into your mixing container.
The 2 parts of the Mold Making Material kit are actually 2 different colors (white and dark blue) so you'll know when the mixture is thoroughly mixed when the color becomes a consistent medium blue.
Next, pour the mixture into your container and over your object.
Then, sit back and let the mold cure: 3-4 hours at room temperature will do the trick.
Once time has passed, you can poke the top of the silicone to make sure that it is not sticky anymore before removing it from the box.
Cut the box open and pull the whole mold out before removing the object.
Remove your object from the mold by carefully wiggling it out.
Congratulations, your mold is complete and you are now ready to make exact replicas of your object.
You can use many different substances to fill the mold such as polyurethane and wax but we recommend ArtResin in combination with our line of ResinTints.
So there you have it. The possibilities are truly endless!
Good luck in your mold making adventures. Try not to box yourself in and stay creative.
@trillilife Is Our Newest Instagram Winner!
Trilli is a full time, self-taught artist based in Toronto who developed a technique using glue and glitter to create realistic paintings. Her process is so fascinating to watch unfold that several videos she has been featured in have gone viral.
Trilli's childhood fascination with glitter continued well into her teen years, when she began to experiment and develop the technique used on her art today. She's drawn to using glitter because of the magical feeling the sparkle brings to her work: "I especially love creating memorial portraits with this medium as the movement of the glitter in the light gives a sense of life to the person in a unique way. It's a medium that cannot be copied, duplicated, or truly fully experienced in photo or video - it's an in-person and one-of a kind experience, and created with a technique that was built throughout my whole life."
Trilli says: "I like to inspire others. Creative ideas have always come easily to me, so I like to keep producing work and new diverse ideas, to push the boundaries of what people think is possible to make out of using only glitter! I hope that it inspires others to try something new, different, and keep thinking of unconventional ways to make and share art."
Each piece starts as a sketch on a wood panel to which Trilli applies glue with a fine nozzle tip, before adding her glitter. She starts with the black outline, working her way from dark to light, often blending many different colors together in the wet glue to get the perfect shade. She typically does a base layer first, letting it fully dry, before adding fine details over top, such as highlights, hair strands and eyelashes. When the piece is done and fully dried, the edges are painted and then sealed with ArtResin. She says: "Applying resin to my glitter pieces enhanced the sparkle so much and it's essential for protecting the piece long term so no glitter sheds off. I am applying it as standard practice to all my portrait work since it really gives it the professional finish and makes the results so much more dynamic and vibrant."
Trilli sells her artwork online, mostly through commission work booked through her website or through social media.
To see more of Trilli's work:
Visit her website: trillilife.com
Congratulations on your win, Trilli!
To celebrate all the amazing artists staying home and creating, every month we will be sending out a 32 oz kit to a couple of artists who have tagged us on Instagram—and we'll share their work with the world!
Don't forget, tag YOUR ArtResin work with @art_resin on Instagram, and YOU could be our next winner!!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
How To Resin Pointillism Art
We love using wooden art panels here at ArtResin - they allow you to apply your dots directly to the panel and to pour your resin right on top. A panel with a raised lip contains the resin and makes for an easy pour with clean edges.
Join ArtResin's Hannah as she creates an easy and fun pointillism piece with a glossy resin finish that takes her work from good to gorgeous.
Let's get started ....
What You'll Need:
- A 12 x 12" wood art panel painted white
- a selection of markers
- ArtResin epoxy resin
- A pair of nitrile gloves, a stir stick and spreader
- a measuring cup with easy to read measurement lines
- a handheld torch like our Artist's Torch
- toothpicks
- a clean, empty plastic tote to protect your piece while it dries
Steps:
1. Apply your dot pattern directly onto your painted wood panel. You can trace your design and fill it in, like Hannah did, or create your own freehand work - it's up to you!
đź’ˇTIP: You can draw your design on paper first, then mount the finished drawing to the panel using an even coat of adhesive. For best results, smooth the drawing out with your hands or a brayer to ensure an even bond to the panel with no air pockets. Seal your artwork using a spray sealant safe for felt tip marker - allow the sealant to dry before applying ArtResin.
Resting your hand on a piece of paper helps keep your artwork clean while you finish off your design.
We're ready to resin!
2. Using our Resin Calculator, simply enter the length and width of your piece to determine how much ArtResin you’ll need. A standard 1/8" coating for a 12" x 12" panel requires 5 oz resin (2.5 oz resin and 2.5 oz hardener).
3. Wearing gloves, measure accurately (by volume) precisely equal amounts of resin and hardener. Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes total, ensuring you scrape the bottom and sides of your mixing container as you go.
đź’ˇ TIP: for our very best measuring and mixing tips, read the blog How To Measure And Mix Resin And Hardener.
4. Pour the ArtResin onto the center of your piece and spread it out to the edges. You can tilt the panel to spread it or use a plastic spreading tool. You'll have about 45 minutes of working time before the resin gets too thick to work with.
đź’ˇTIP: Read our blog How To Pour And Spread Epoxy Resin for more resin tips and techniques!
5. Remove bubbles with an Artist’s Torch, holding the flame a couple of inches above the resin surface just long enough to pop the bubbles, keeping the torch moving from side to side at all times. After torching, inspect your piece in the light and remove any bits of dust with a toothpick.
đź’ˇTIP: if you're nervous about using a torch, don't be! Read our blog with all you need to know about How To Use A Torch On Epoxy Resin.
6. Cover your piece with a plastic tote or a cardboard box (with the flaps cut off). Let it sit for 24 hrs until it’s dry to the touch.
7. Wait 24hrs and then admire your work!
đź’ˇTIP: the resin will be dry to the touch at the 24hr mark. You can hang your artwork on the wall at this point, but if you're packing and shipping your artwork, please wait at least 72hrs until the resin has fully cured.
Wasn't that fun?
We hope this tutorial inspired you to create your own pointillism piece.
Post any comments or questions, below - we love to hear from you!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
Mekyas Getahun Is Our Instagram Winner!
Mekyas is a full-time artist based in Las Vegas who creates vibrant, abstract acrylic paintings.
Mekyas prepares his birch wood panels by taping off the sides, then pours his acrylics over top. He allows the pieces to dry for 2-3 weeks before adding a layer of ArtResin. If he feels the piece needs it, he will add an additional resin layer.
Mekyas says that ArtResin has had a profound impact on his art: it has given his paintings a professional finish that has taken his work (and his business) to a whole new level of exposure.
To see more of Mekyas' work:
Visit his Etsy shop
Follow him on Instagram: @art_of_mekyas
Congratulations on your win, Mekyas!
To celebrate all the amazing artists staying home and creating, every month we will be sending out a 32 oz kit to a couple of artists who have tagged us on Instagram—and we'll share their work with the world!
Don't forget, tag YOUR ArtResin work with @art_resin on Instagram, and YOU could be our next winner!!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
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