DiamondResin is formulated using the highest quality materials and therefore produces no VOCs or fumes. It is a clean system, meaning there are no solvents or non-reactive diluents—everything in it reacts so nothing is free to become airborne and cause health issues. It is also non-flammable in its liquid form. For all these reasons, it is therefore classified as a non-hazardous material and is shippable by air. Furthermore, many curatives have a powerful odor, however Diamond Resin has only a low odor and is applicator friendly. Passed the EU REACH environmental certification Passing the EU's stricter REACH safety and environmental certification Reach contains 173 safety substance tests. ROHS has only 10 normal tests. The product does not contain benzene, toluene, formaldehyde, etc. Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) content 34. Under the standard of 700, the standard is reduced by 20 times. Diamond Resin Epoxy Resin is Non-Toxic (when used as directed) and Safe for Home Use!
DiamondResin is derived from museum conservation-grade materials to ensure its water-clear clarity is preserved for decades. Many resins contain a UV stabilizer to help delay the epoxy's natural yellowing process, however this alone is not enough to prevent yellowing from happening. Diamond Resin contains both a UV stabilizer as well as an advanced additive called HALS (hindered amine light stabilizer) that interrupts the yellowing process before it can begin. The result is that it stays clear both in the bottle and once cured.
Epoxy resins are prone to yellowing and other degradative effects from UV light, so stabilization additives are used to help mediate the damage. A UV stabilizer works to protect against gloss loss, cracking, chalking and de-lamination, and to some extent yellowing. A UV stabilizer merely delays yellowing in resins, so DiamondResin has a HALS (hindered amine light stabilizer) added for extremely efficient long term yellowing protection.
Yes, once Diamond Resin is cured, it is fully inert and can be safely used as a food contact surface. DiamondResin has been vigorously tested by a third party for leaching and migration across worldwide standards and passed every test: when used as directed, cured Diamond Resin will not leach any substances into food that comes into contact with it.
DiamondResin will stay fresh for about 6 months in opened bottles, or 1 year unopened.
Yes, you can do a second coat of DiamondResin. You may choose to do this to repair the first coat, for example if there is a bubble, hair, dust or other small imperfection in your cured resin. To apply a second layer, you will prepare and apply the resin exactly the same way as the first; however you must sand out the imperfection first, and then give the entire piece an overall sanding to provide some tooth so the second layer can adhere properly. Sanding will cause the first layer to look scuffed but don't worry; when you pour the second coat on, the scuff marks will become invisible. You can also pour multiple layers of DiamondResin if, for instance, you need to cover areas of high relief, if you're pouring into a mold or if you simply like the look of a thicker coat. It's important to remember that the ideal pour is 1/8" - if you pour any thicker, the bubbles will not be able to escape. You can layer DiamondResin in multiple coats, as high as you'd like, as long as you pour in 1/8" increments. You have two choices when pouring multiple layers: the first is to pour your first layer, torch out the bubbles, cover and wait 3-5 hours until your resin reaches a jelly like stage. At this point, you can pour on your next 1/8" layer, torch out bubbles, cover, wait 3-5 hrs and repeat until you reach the height you desire. This method is especially handy when pouring into a mold or a dam. The second option is to allow your first layer to fully dry, then give the overall piece a light sanding and pour on your next 1/8" layer. Torch out bubbles, cover and let this layer dry. Repeat these steps as many times as you'd like.
Torches work extremely well to eliminate bubbles because they produce a flame which can easily be controlled and directed at an area of bubbles. When the resin is heated, it thins out which enables it to de-gas more easily. Heat guns can also work, however they are harder to direct heat to where you want it to go. An added benefit of the flame is that it will burn off tiny dust particles that may have landed in the resin. Of course, common sense and caution should be used when operating any torch or heat gun.
DiamondResin is considered a non-hazardous material and is non-toxic when used as directed, however there are some common sense safety precautions that every user should follow: Wear gloves. Epoxy resin is very sticky in its liquid form, so gloves will protect the user from a mess, as well as skin irritation. Clean skin promptly with soap and water if it does come in contact with the product. If the product somehow comes in contact with your eyes, flush with water repeatedly and do not rub. Promptly seek medical attention. Work in a well ventilated area. Wear a respirator if ventilation is poor.
Yes, DiamondResin can be tinted with Resin pigment, as well as acrylic paint or ink. Simply drop color into the mixture while stirring for an all over saturated color. All 24 Resin colorants are crafted for compatibility with Diamond Resin epoxy resin: this colorant will preserve the glossiness and translucency of the resin and will not cause a flammability risk when torched. Acrylic paint will produce a more opaque look and often greatly decreases the working time. Inks such as alcohol ink can pose a significant flammability risk when torched. TIP: Whichever colorant you choose, be sure not to add more than 6% of the total volume of mixed resin and hardener. Adding more than 6% colorant may interfere with the delicate balance necessary for the epoxy resin's chemical reaction to take place, thereby preventing your DiamondResin from curing properly.
The maximum temperature that cured Diamond Resin can tolerate is 120F or 50C. At temperatures as high as that, the cured pieces may become a little flexible but once they cool off, they will harden up once again. Typically, the heat generated from a hot mug will not damage the resin surface on a coaster, but if your cured resin is exposed to temperatures beyond 120F or 50C, however - for example, you place a hot dish right out of the oven on a resined surface or you leave a cured piece in a hot car - it could cause irreperable damage.
Diamond Resin epoxy resin will bond well to every medium, with the exception of wax paper and plastics including silicone (i.e. materials that repel water). It works extremely well on wood, photographs, inkjet prints, acrylic, oil paint that has completely dried, watercolour, spray paint, encaustic, ink, paper collage, oil pastel, sculpture, flowers, rocks, and other found objects. You may want to avoid pouring it over loose materials (this may include chalk pastels); anything that is not completely adhered to the surface of your work could potentially mix into the resin in its liquid form once it's poured and float around. Some lower quality papers absorb resin rather than allowing it to sit on top, in which case a sealant should be used over the paper first to avoid seepage. The best thing to do is experiment and have fun!
Yes, you can use Diamond Resin epoxy resin over oil paint once it has dried thoroughly. It will fully bond to and seal in any dry oil painting.
Yes, you can resin over acrylics. Diamond Resin epoxy resin will not act as a solvent on acrylic so long as the surface you are resining is dry. If you are curious or hesitant as to what the outcome will be, simply conduct a test on a practice surface first.
Yes, you can use Diamond Resin epoxy resin over watercolor. Usually watercolor paper is very thick and high quality in order to be able to stand up to water which makes it the perfect paper to apply resin to. Some papers can absorb resin, but watercolor paper typically does not.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin can be applied over dry spray paint.
Yes, you can use Diamond Resin epoxy resin over inkjet prints. There are many different kinds and brands of ink and paper, all of which will behave slightly differently. Glossy printed paper tends to work better than matte paper in allowing the resin to sit on top of the print without absorbing in. Glossy prints done at your local print shop will typically work great with Diamond Resin epoxy resin.
Yes, you can use Diamond Resin epoxy resin over photographs for a finished, frameless modern look. Printing on glossy paper typically yields the best result.
Yes. Diamond Resin epoxy resin will seal in all kinds of papers, including photo paper, tracing paper, linen paper, origami paper, Yupo paper, etc. Resin isn’t like water—if you pour it on paper, it doesn’t necessarily soak into it provided you are using good quality paper. If you apply wet resin on dry paper, you will be able to touch the other side of the paper and it will be dry. Low to medium quality papers can absorb the resin making colors appear darker, however this can be corrected by first applying a sealant such as Mod Podge before using Diamond Resin epoxy resin. Glossy paper works best for photos. If you are curious or hesitant as to what the outcome will be, simply conduct a test on a small piece of scrap paper first.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin will bond well to Yupo synthetic paper.
Yes, you can easily use Diamond Resin epoxy resin over a puzzle. Cut a piece of MDF board to the exact dimensions of your puzzle and adhere your puzzle to the board with white glue. It's always best practice to pre-treat your puzzle with a sealant first, as the resin may soak into the paper and make it look darker, especially around the perimeter of each puzzle piece. Measure, mix and apply the Diamond Resin epoxy resin. Often puzzles require 2 coats because air is released from between the pieces in the puzzle which tends to create pitting in the first layer. A second layer will take care of any surface imperfections. Always remember to sand in between layers to encourage proper adhesion.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin looks great over wood! It brings out the wood's natural colors and grain, protecting it for the longterm. Always ensure your wood is thoroughly dried before applying Diamond Resin and it's a good idea to seal it prior to resining to avoid off-gassing air bubbles.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin will adhere to aluminum extremely well. It looks incredible!
Yes, you can resin over water-based or permanent marker once dry, however in most cases you will need to use a sealant such as Leveling Gel over the marker first to prevent bleeding and/or discoloration. Always test first before you pour Diamond Resin over your masterpiece.
Yes, but be aware that chalk pastel is made up of loose particles that could mix with the resin. If you are applying a large quantity of resin, you may be able to tilt the surface (e.g. your canvas or board) in order to spread the resin around—much like batter in a cake pan—(instead of using a spreader) to help prevent unwanted mixing.
Yes, you can apply Diamond Resin epoxy resin to sculpture and 3D objects by painting it on in thin coats with a disposable foam brush or applying with gloved hands.
Yes, however Diamond Resin epoxy resin is best for certain types of jewelry making where the resin is poured into/onto a support (e.g. pendants). It may not be appropriate for pieces that are meant to be worn without a substrate (e.g. a bangle). Try experimenting with colored pigments and dyes, pouring it into silicone molds and into bezels. Add attachments like hooks, pins, beads and gems either as the resin is curing, or afterward using a strong adhesive.
Yes. Flatter objects, like pennies, will be easier to cover totally. You can also work in layers if it helps.
Yes, you can apply Diamond Resin epoxy resin as an adhesive for glass tiles and mosaics (i.e. like clear grout), and you can also pour it overtop of shard glass to make sure sharp edges are not exposed.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin can be used over organic material such as butterfly wings, rocks and leaves. The resin will seal it in, protecting it from the air and preserving its natural brilliant color. Be aware that resin can make some items look as they would when wet - test first so you know exactly what to expect. Make sure natural items are thoroughly dried or they may rot under the resin. Some natural objects can off-gas trapped air into the resin in the form of bubbles - you may want to seal first as a precaution. Choose items that are fairly flat so the resin is sure to cover them completely, or you may need to pour multiple coats to cover areas of high relief. Use caution when pouring and spreading over delicate areas of your artwork and be aware that the resin is thick and can be heavy if a large amount is used. Because of this, you may wish to apply the resin in thin coats.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin can be used over gold leaf.
Yes. Depending on how high the texture is, you may need to apply multiple coats if you want a perfectly flat resin surface on top. To apply multiple layers of resin, allow the first coat to thicken to a gel-like state (usually takes 3-5 hours), then pour a second coat overtop to cover any areas that are sticking up. Repeat as often as necessary, torching after each pour.
Yes, Diamond Resin will make the fabric stiff and rock hard after it cures. Be advised that the resin will make the fabric look wet and may even make it look darker or alter its colour. Try testing with water on the fabric first to give you an idea of what it will look like once resined. You can use Diamond Resin on any fabric, but we always advise testing first so you know exactly what results to expect.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy can be used over polymer clay to seal, strengthen and give your sculptural piece a beautiful glossy look. Apply a thin coat with a disposable foam brush, gloved hands or small objects may be dipped into a cup of Diamond Resin.
Diamond Resin epoxy resin works very well as a coaster protectant; the heat generated from the bottom of a hot mug will not damage the resin surface. However, hotter temperatures such as that produced from a frying pan or casserole dish straight from the oven are typically too hot and could cause irreparable damage to the resin surface so we do not recommend using Diamond Resin epoxy resin for hot plates. It is recommended for use up to 120F/50C.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin will bond to ceramic material. For ceramic tile, simply pour on and spread as usual. For ceramic sculpture, apply with a disposable foam brush in thin coats. For ceramic plateware, simply wait until the Diamond Resin epoxy resin has fully cured before serving food on it.
Yes, once cured, Diamond Resin epoxy resin is entirely inert meaning it will not leach anything in or out. Keep in mind that Diamond Resin cannot be exposed to temperatures higher than 120F/50C.
Yes, you can use Diamond Resin epoxy resin on food without it rotting, so long as you cover every square inch of the item to protect it from the air. Once resined, your food will look as fresh as the day it was resined (though it should not be eaten, obviously).
Diamond Resin epoxy resin can be used to coat kitchen countertops, but keep in mind that Diamond Resin was designed as a surface coating for artwork meant to be hung on the wall - it is considered scratch-resistant but not scratch-proof. You may want to add a polyurethane topcoat for an extra layer of protection against everyday wear and tear. Diamond Resin epoxy resin is approved as food safe by the FDA.
Diamond Resin epoxy resin is very durable once fully cured but as it was designed as a surface coating for artwork meant to be hung on the wall, it is considered scratch-resistant, not scratch-proof. A polyurethane sealant will help to protect your floor against inevitable wear and tear. It should be noted that Diamond Resin epoxy resin may be slippery when wet as it is waterproof.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin will work for relatively small casting projects such as pen blanks.
Yes. Diamond Resin epoxy resin is very durable and waterproof. Once cured, the resin is inert and therefore does not pose a threat to aquatic life. Although it can be indented with a fingernail in the first few days after curing, it is not typically able to be indented after the first 72 hour window. Diamond Resin epoxy resin has been shown in third party lab tests to outperform other epoxy resins in terms of non-yellowing longevity, resulting in a realistic-looking lure that will last.
Yes, you can resin over a guitar. Work in multiple thin layers to avoid dripping. You may want to try hanging the guitar from a wire so that the drips gather at the bottom where you will drill in the strap peg.
Diamond Resin epoxy resin is much thicker than varnish. Diamond Resin is poured on like clear honey and spread out, whereas varnish is typically painted or rolled on. Diamond Resin's cure time is 24 hours until dry to the touch and 72 hours for a full cure. Varnish has a much quicker dry time. Diamond Resin epoxy resin protects against the damaging effects of UV light, whereas varnishes typically do not.
Diamond Resin epoxy resin is a two part mixture, whereas Mod Podge is one part. Diamond Resin epoxy resin is poured on like clear honey and spread out, whereas Mod Podge is typically painted on with a brush in several coats. Diamond Resin epoxy resin is thicker and typically glossier than Mod Podge. Both act as sealants. Diamond Resin epoxy resin is protected against the aging (i.e. yellowing) effects of the sun by UV and HALS stabilization additives.
Wooden panels are best to use with Diamond Resin epoxy resin because they are sturdy. With large pieces, stretched canvas can sag in the middle under the weight of the resin. Check out our Wood Panels, made especially for Diamond Resin!
Diamond Resin epoxy resin does not adhere well to disposable plastic paint tarps, plastic sandwich/grocery bags, silicone molds, and the non-sticky side of shiny tape. Artists can use these properties to their advantage when creating their pieces (e.g. jewelry made from resin poured in silicone molds).
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin can be painted on once it's dry. Some artists mix resin with pigment or dye and use it like paint on top of a first cured layer of resin. You may want to check out one of our Feature Artists, Bruce Riley, who works this way.
Diamond Resin epoxy resin is very firm and hard once cured and is heat resistant and scratch resistant.
No, shrinkage will not occur with Diamond Resin epoxy resin. Shrinkage only occurs in products that have solvents, cheap fillers or non-reactive diluents included, which Diamond Resin epoxy resin does not.
No, cracking does not typically occur. Diamond Resin epoxy resin is very hard and durable once cured. It has been formulated with a bit of flexibility to it to prevent cracking and brittleness.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin is a permanent application that seals in whatever it is poured overtop of and protects the work underneath from water.
If Diamond Resin epoxy resin freezes in its liquid state, it should be moved to a warmer place and will return to normal functioning once it reaches room temperature. Once it has cured, however, you want to avoid letting it freeze. This is due to the expansion and contraction that can happen to the substrate, which adds stress to the resin coat and can cause it to crack.
Diamond Resin epoxy resin contains advanced UV and Hindered Amine Light Stabilizers to protect it from degradation (i.e. yellowing) caused by UV light, however exposing it deliberately to UV light is still not recommended to be safe.
In most cases you don't need to use a sealant before applying Diamond Resin; however, there are some situations when sealing first makes sense: sealing over paper which may otherwise absorb the resin, sealing over loose materials that may float away in the resin, and sealing over natural objects that may off-gas, such as wood. Use a brush-on or a spray sealant that dries clear and is appropriate for your particular artwork. If in doubt, it never hurts to use a sealant first, but we always recommend doing a test on a scrap piece before you resin your masterpiece.
Usually magazine clippings will typically hold true to their colors—it depends on the quality of ink and paper they're printed on. It helps to paint the surface underneath white, then resin as usual overtop. Clippings should be sealed first before resining. Some magazines pages can become translucent and show the images on the opposite side when resin is applied.
There are lots of different types and qualities of glue available - choose one that dries clear and that doesn't contain much water so it doesn't ripple the paper the paper you're using. A spray adhesive and a glue stick work very well. To mount your paper evenly and securely, apply the glue of your choice over the entire back of your paper. Starting with the edge closest to you, line the paper up evenly with the edge of the substrate and roll it back slowly, making sure no air pockets are trapped underneath. Next, take a clean piece of paper and a brayer and roll evenly on top of your piece making sure any air pockets are out the piece is adhered securely. Allow enough time for the glue to dry thoroughly before you apply Diamond Resin over top.
Yes you can use a paint roller to spread Diamond Resin epoxy resin, however the roller will be unusable afterward. An air gun is not recommended for use with resin because it will clog the passageway as it cures. The easiest way to apply Diamond Resin epoxy is by dragging the resin across the surface with an Diamond Resin spreader
1. Cut masonite board (MDF board) to the dimensions you want 2. Measure length of masonite and cut wooden edges to match that length. For small pieces, use 2 x 1″ wood. For larger pieces, use 2 x 2″ wood so it's stronger. 3. Use wood glue/corrugated nails to attach the edges to the board. 4. OPTIONAL: You can also use flat 'L' brackets to screw into the back to make the corners stay tight. If the piece is large, consider adding a diagonal cross-piece of wood from corner to corner for extra support. 5. Sand corner outer edges. Fill in gaps with wood filler putty. Let dry and sand again. 6. To prime the wood, use gesso from an art store or white ceiling paint from the hardware store Check out our Wood Panels, made especially for Diamond Resin!
Diamond Resin epoxy resin has no fumes or VOCs, however it makes sense to use it in a ventilated area. It should be kept and used at room temperature in an environment that is not too humid, otherwise surface film and other imperfections can occur in your resin as it cures.
Measure equally and accurately by volume, not weight. Adding too much of either the resin or the hardener will alter the chemical reaction and your resin will not cure properly. Stir your equally measured amounts of resin and hardener together for at least 3 minutes. Not stirring properly will result in a sticky resin that will never cure. Scrape the bottom and sides of your mixing vessel as you stir to ensure the entire mixture catalyzes and that there is no remaining unmixed resin or hardener stuck to the sides that may prevent a proper cure. If bubbles appear, don’t worry—you can take care of them after pouring with an Artist's Torch. When you pour the resin out of the mixing vessel, avoid scraping the sides in case there is any unmixed resin or hardener stuck to the sides - if this gets mixed into your catalyzed resin, you may end up with soft sticky spots in your cured resin
Once you mixed your resin and hardener for 3 minutes, you'll have approximately 40 minutes of working time to pour and spread your Diamond Resin before it starts to cure and gets too thick to work with. If you've warmed your resin in a water bath, the working time will be reduced by about 10-15 minutes, so time yourself accordingly. If you want to coat the entire piece, start by pouring in the centre of your work. To spread, use a flat semi-strong object (i.e. something that can stand up to the density and weight of the resin). You can also use a disposable foam brush if you only want to embellish specific areas of your piece. Typically you will have to dispose of your spreading tool, unless you purchase reusable epoxy resin spreaders which can be used over and over again. Our reusable spreaders have different sized teeth along each size so you can drag the spreader across the surface of the artwork and in so doing, you will spread the Diamond Resin epoxy resin evenly and efficiently. You can resin the sides with a disposable foam brush or your gloved hand, or just let the resin dome neatly on top - doming means that you simply nudge the resin just to the edge of your piece without going over ... Diamond Resin's thick texture allows it to sit where you want it to! Keep in mind that Diamond Resin will naturally self-level to a thickness of approximately 1/8".
Make sure the surface is dry and dust free. Check that the piece is level. You will want to set up a drop cloth underneath your work area. Prop your piece up on support blocks so you can resin the sides easily. You may also wish to tape off the underside of your piece to protect it from potential drips.
It's a good idea to have your piece raised off the ground on support blocks (e.g. empty plastic containers) so you can allow the resin to spill down the edges without pooling at the base, which would cause the resin to adhere your piece to the table top. Since Diamond Resin doesn't stick to plastic, we like to use plastic support stands such as lego blocks, plastic shot glasses or painter's pyramids. If you end up with any drips on your support blocks, you can peel off the cured resin right off the blocks and use them again and again.
Yes, Diamond Resin epoxy resin is self-leveling. This means you can leave it alone and it will spread itself out evenly, so long as you have a level surface. Its natural thickness is about 1/8". You will likely want to spread it around with a brush or a reusable spreader to guide the resin into place.
The working time of Diamond Resin epoxy resin ( also called the pot life or open time ) is about 45 minutes. This is how long you have to work with the resin before curing sets in and it becomes too stiff to manipulate. You're best to apply the resin as soon as it has been thoroughly mixed for 3 minutes. TIP: the working time can be affected by heat: if you've put the resin in a warm water bath or if you're working in a warm environment, the working time will be decreased by about 10-15 minutes. The cure time may also be decreased.
Cure time refers to the amount of time it takes for the resin mixture to totally finish its chemical reaction and become its hardest state. The Diamond Resin epoxy resin cure time is 24 hours (hard cure), however you can touch the surface after about 8 hours without it feeling sticky. It reaches its full cure at 72 hours.
Diamond Resin epoxy resin is formulated to give a high gloss finish, however it can be wet sanded down with a series of fine grit sandpaper and then a matte medium ( such as a non-toxic wax ) can be applied and polished overtop.
Epoxy resin dries ( cures ) faster with more heat. You can increase the room temperature to 75-85ºF / 24-30ºC or use heat lamps to encourage a quicker cure ( ensure the temperature stays stable for the first 24 hrs. ) Adding more hardener to the mixture will not work.
Diamond Resin epoxy resin can be thinned by heating it up, thus altering its viscosity. This will cause it to cure faster. You can heat it up by placing it near a heater or in a hot water bath, so long as it's in a glass container. Plastics tend to breathe a bit which puts the resin at risk for getting water in it, causing cloudiness. Do not attempt to use solvents to thin.
The most efficient way to remove bubbles from epoxy resin is with a torch. So whether you use a butane Artist's Torch or a propane torch, the flame from the torch heats the resin surface up instantly, thinning it out and allowing bubbles to escape very easily. Some additional tips to help prevent bubbles are to seal your work ( especially in the case of wood or paper that might off-gas trapped air ), ensure your resin is room temperature or warmer, stir slowly rather than whipping your resin, pour slowly, and make sure you pour in 1/8" layers to allow the bubbles to escape to the surface.
Edges can be dealt with in different ways. Some artists like to mask off the edges entirely and aim to keep the Diamond Resin epoxy resin sitting on top of the piece, domed. Other artists only mask off the underside of the piece and allow the resin to drip over the sides, then spread it with a gloved hand. There are art panels available with a small ridge around the perimeter that creates a border for the resin and holds it all in neatly
The best way to deal with drips is to prevent them from happening in the first place. Use painter's tape to mask off your edges to collect drips as they're forming - by the 24hr mark you can remove the tape and the drips right along with it. You can also smooth away drips while they're still wet with a foam brush or your gloved hand. If you have cured drips on your artwork, you can remove them with an electric sander.
Epoxy resin will not stick to plastic materials such as acetate, plexiglass and silicone. Another way to create a dam is to use a bead of silicone from a tube and applicator gun.
Put a protective covering over your resined piece (e.g. a big cardboard box). It helps to have the covering made prior to starting to resin so it's available as soon as you finish. If you are working in a garage, wet the garage floor to keep the dust down.
The key to photographing a high gloss finish like Diamond Resin is to light it without causing glare or hotspots. Hang your artwork up on a wall, position your camera on a tripod so that the lens is straight on and centred in the middle of your artwork and at a parallel angle. Control the lighting in the room by closing blinds and turning off room lights. Two copy lights set up at a 45 degree angle on either side of your artwork will create an even wash of light without creating reflections. Adjust the placement of the lights as necessary until you get a well lit shot without glare. Adjust your camera's aperture and white balance settings until you find a representation of your artwork that looks true to life. Make adjustments, take a few test shots and when you're happy with what you see, you're ready to shoot! If you know how, you can also adjust the light and color levels in Photoshop.
You can wait until the first coat of resin reaches a gel-like state, after about 3-5 hours, so that when you pour the second layer, it sits on top of the first layer. The two layers will bond together. On the other hand, if you wait until the first layer is dry to the touch, after about 24 hrs, scuff up the surface with 80 grit sandpaper before applying the second coat. This will provide some tooth for best adhesion.
Mix for at least 3 minutes, and then mix a bit more just to be sure! Remember to scrape the sides and bottom of the container as you stir to ensure everything is thoroughly combined. Improperly mixed resin will not be able to catalyze and will not cure properly. Don't scrape when you pour though - if there's going to be any unmixed resin or hardener, it will be on the sides and bottom and if it gets scraped out onto your artwork, it could cause soft, sticky spots in your resin.
Use disposable gloves, line your work surface with a vinyl shower curtain and have drop sheets on the ground to keep clean up simple. Do not pour leftover epoxy resin down the drain! Instead, wipe out all containers and wipe down reusable plastic tools with paper towel. Wipe down once more with rubbing alcohol or acetone to remove any residue. Next, wash with hot soapy water if desired. Or, simply allow any remaining residue to simply cure right on plastic tools and peel it off the next day once it has dried.
Keeping Diamond Resin epoxy resin pieces clean is very simple: just treat it like glass. Use a gentle glass cleaner and a soft cloth and polish as you would glass.